Tips for Creating a Native Landscape in Iowa
Creating a native garden or space seems nice, but how do you actually do it? Here are some tips to help you get started in planting a native garden that not only benefits our wildlife and your mental health, but is also manageable and fun.
Assess Your Site
Note how much sun the site gets
- Full sun (6+ hours), part-shade (3-6 hours), and full shade
- South and west-facing slopes are typically hotter and drier
- North-facing and low-lying areas are typically cooler and wetter.
Dig test holes and feel the soil
- Is it heavy clay that holds water, a loamy garden soil, or sandy/loess that drains quickly?
- Do you have seasonal standing water or a high water table?
- Does it puddle for days after it rains?
What is your primary goal for this site?
- Is it for pollinators, wildlife habitat, or just to look at?
- While all of these things can happen in one garden, knowing your goal helps narrow down what species you will plant. For example, more milkweed would be added if your goal is to support Monarchs, whereas if your goal is wildlife habitat, you would plant more grass and shrubs.
Design tips for attractive and functional plantings
Use layers and repetition
- Tall grasses and asters in the back, mid-height coneflowers and goldenrods in the middle, low sedges and groundcovers in the front
- Repeat plant groups to create rhythm and a more manicured look
Use transition zones
- A buffer strip of low natives or mulch help reduce weed invasion from your lawn and creates a nice visual boarder
- Consider a mown or gravel pathway to define edges. Stones and brick make wonderful edges as well.
Add features
- Bright, colorful plants surrounded by rocks or mulch adds an exciting touch
- Water ponds and fountains not only add visual interest, but create micro environments for critters and a drinking source for pollinators and wildlife
Planting
Site preparation
- Remove vegetation from site
- For small beds, you can use layers of cardboard or newspaper covered in compost/mulch or sod-strip to reduce weed competition
- For larger prairie conversions, consider an herbicide treatment to kill all of the existing vegetation
Decide on seed, plugs, or containers
- Seed mixes are cost-effective for large areas but require more time and weed control
- Plugs are more expensive but cut down on establishment time
- Using containers, like pots or raised beds, is a great option if you are living in an apartment or want to move your flowers around
Timing
- Late Fall seeding mimics natural cycles and often gives higher germination due to many native plants needing cold stratification
- Early Spring seeding is another option once soils can be worked however it still needs to be cold enough outside that seeds will germinate
- Plugs can be planted throughout the Spring season as long as the threat of frost is gone.
Planting plugs
- Plant at the same depth as the nursery pot, firm the soil to remove air pockets, and water deeply
- Space forbs roughly a foot apart, grass 2 feet apart, and grass to forbs 1.5 feet apart
- Apply 1-2 inches of mulch in new plantings to reduce weed pressure.
- Keep mulch away from stems
- Water weekly for the first month, then taper according to rainfall.
- Reduce watering after the first year
Maintenance
Native plants Sleep, Creep, and then Leap
Year One: Sleep
- Native plants usually have extensive root systems and they start their lives developing these roots
- Expect slow above ground growth which can lead to more weeds, and the need for targeted weeding
- For larger areas where hand weeding is not feasible, mow vegetation to 6 inches in height to reduce weed competition and allow sunlight to reach the soil.
Year Two: Creep
- Plants begin to show growth above ground and form clumps
- Continue selective weeding
- Again, for larger areas, mow vegetation but this time to 8 inches in height
Year Three: Leap
- You should see blooms and maintenance should be reduced
- Note that each species is different and can take longer to establish This is a general timeline
- Leave the stems and skip fall/spring clean up!
- Stems and leaves provide great overwintering habitat for our native pollinators and wildlife
- If you must clean up, leave 15 inches of stem standing for native bees to nest. You can rake leaves into a pile to leave
- Prescribed burning every 2-4 years can rejuvenate growth and control woody encroachment.
- This is not always an option, so mowing also helps control woodys and simulates grazing
- Always use certified burn managers and follow local regulations and safety protocols
- You should see blooms and maintenance should be reduced
Takeaways
1. Start small
Convert a front bed or create a rain garden to learn species behavior before scaling up. You can always expand over time.
2. Right species for the site
Dry-loess, mesic prairie, wet rain garden, or shade understory each require different plants.
3. Commit to 3-5 years
Native plants take time. A plan that addresses initial weed control, adaptive interventions, and a mowing/burning schedule for larger plantings makes sure that maintenance is not forgotten.
Planting a native landscape is an investment in beauty and biodiversity. With careful planning, you can create a landscape that thrives in Iowa’s climate, supports native wildlife, and reduces inputs over time.























































